Forget about live food!! All Ocean Rider seahorses (except Pixies) are pre trained to feed on frozen mysis shrimp enhanced with Vibrance!! Our recommended feeding regime is: 2-5 frozen mysis shrimp enhanced with Vibrance 2 per seahorse per feeding twice a day, 6 days per week with one fast day per week.
Please give your seahorses 12 hours to adjust to their new home before feeding the frozen mysis. Always be Careful NOT to OVERFEED. If there are leftovers on the bottom of the tank for more than 15minutes you are overfeeding and will need to siphon out the uneaten food and reduce the amount of mysis for the next feeding. Please do NOT feed seahorses before going to sleep at night so that you can see what they eat and don’t!! Please do NOT turn your pump off before feeding. (too many people forget to turn it back on!!)
Sprinkle a “pinch” of Vibrance onto the frozen mysis. Allow the mysis shrimp to thaw. Gently mix the Vibrance into the mysis so that the head is red. Apply the feed to seahorse tank. You may use a feeding station for this if you prefer. Find out how by going to the FAQ’s and typing in feeding station. You will see that our seahorses recognize this food quickly. This high quality frozen mysis shrimp, combined with Vibrance creates a food that is very high in HUFA’s (especially DHA omega 3 and omega 6 DHA series),carotenoids, vitamins and minerals which are essential components to the diet of the seahorse. This is such a good diet that we recommended that you “fast” your seahorses one day per week.
Feeding of live food is for your entertainment and is not necessary. However it is a good idea to feed the red volcanic shrimp once every few weeks or so to provide the seahorse with behavioral enrichment and some variation in the diet. Please do not feed live feeds of unknown origin that may introduce pathogens into your system.
Since you are buying Ocean Riders directly from our “high health” farm in tropical Hawaii where they are born and raised they will be free of pathogens. To keep these hand raised pets healthy please avoid introducing animals that are not certified to be free of pathogens, maintain excellent water quality and feed the seahorses properly!
Ocean Rider Seahorses will live for 5 to 10 years, so if you want to keep them this long follow our recommendations above and remember your new pets like plenty of bright thick hitching posts, are vertically oriented animals, and do better in groups, so feel free to put several seahorses together in the same tank. Although our seahorses do pair pond, they can be very gregarious and will court and mate with others, which means you will have the opportunity to witness their magnificent mating dance frequently!
To learn more on caring for your exotic pets and to get quick help with your seahorses please join our seahorse.com forum where seahorse talk is the walk! We hope our farm raised Ocean Rider seahorses bring you hours of enjoyment every day for years to come!!
How To Use A Feeding Station … by Pete Gwijona:
Seahorses respond very well when they are fed at the same time and place each day. They quickly learn the routine and will come to recognize their keeper as the one who feeds them — the giver of gourmet delights! Once that happens, they will often beat you to the spot, gathering around their feeding station as soon as they see you approach.
In fact, the aquarist can easily condition his seahorses to come a running at feeding time. Before you open the aquarium cover, make a point of lightly tapping it a few times or rapping on it gently. The seahorses will quickly learn to associate the tapping with the mouthwatering morsels that follow, and before you know it, they will respond by gathering at the feeding station as if you were ringing the dinner bell.
To facilitate this process and make feeding them easier, choose a feeding station that’s convenient for you in a relatively uncluttered part of the aquarium, and give your seahorses their meal right there every day. The feeding station should have some convenient hitching posts situated nearby as well. Avoid using an area where currents might whisk the food away from the seahorses before they can eat it.
I know one hobbyist who uses a toadstool leather coral as his feeding station. He places the Mysis on the bowl-shaped top of the toadstool, which contains them nicely while his seahorses perch around the edges and scarf up the shrimp as if dining at a lunch counter.
Not everyone has a toadstool coral to serve as a natural feeding station, of course, but it’s easy to make your own lunch counter that will work just as well. Get a small Pyrex bowl or a similar shallow container made of clear glass or plastic (a large petri dish works great for this) and fill it about halfway with your tank substrate (Mike Kelly, pers. com.). Then sink the bowl into your sand bed until the substrate you placed in the bowl is level with the substrate in the tank (Mike Kelly, pers. com.). Leave the rim sticking up above the sand bed about a 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch or so (Mike Kelly, pers. com.). The clear glass rim of the bowl is transparent and virtually unnoticeable, so don’t worry that it will detract from the appearance of your display tank. Artfully position a few natural hitching posts around the bowl to provide your seahorses with a handy perch from which to snick up their dinner.
At feeding time, place the frozen Mysis on the sand or gravel inside the bowl. A long tube of clear plastic 1/2′ to 1′ in diameter facilitates this. The bottom of the tube is placed in the middle of the bowl and the enriched Mysis are then placed in the top of the tube, which guides them exactly where you want them as they sink. The rim sticking above the sand bed will then keep the food in place while your seahorses dine at their leisure. Afterwards, any leftovers are neatly contained, making cleanup a breeze!
Or you can always purchase a seahorse feeding station off the shelf, ready to go, as is. Artificial cup coral makes an attractive elevated “lunch counter” that does the job nicely. Elevated on a pedestal, the seahorses can perch around the edge of the cup, which contains the frozen shrimp nicely until eaten. The coral cups are very lifelike and make nifty ready-made feeding stations if positioned at a convenient (for you and your galloping gourmets) spot in your tank where currents won’t whisk the Mysis away.
Some hobbyists prefer a more natural looking, aesthetically pleasing feeding station, which they fashion themselves to suit their own tastes. They start with a piece of well-cured live rock that’s approximately the right size and shape, and painstakingly hollow out the center to form a shallow concave depression. This shallow bowl is fashioned by grinding it out, using an electrical moto-tool (available at any craft store or hardware store) with a carbide burr or sometimes even a shop grinder. Once the bowl has been hollowed out, a series of holes are then drilled around the circumference of this depression. Red, brown or purple Gracilaria, green Caulerpa and/or gorgonian branches are planted in these holes to create natural hitching posts. As the macroalgae takes hold and fills out, this produces an attractive feeding station that looks completely natural. It’s a great do-it-yourself project for the handy hobbyist.
An upturned clamshell also makes a nifty natural feeding station that fits in perfectly in your seahorses’ setup. Choose a colorful natural seashell for this, such as one valve of a Tridacna clam or perhaps a Lion’s Paw Scallop shell, and you have an attractive feeding station that’s perfectly appropriate for your tank. The concave interior of the bivalve shell acts as a shallow bowl to contain the frozen Mysis until it’s eaten, and unlike some feeding stations that look out of place and detract from the appearance of your tank, a seashell looks as natural as can be in a marine aquarium. My favorite for this type of feeding station is a medium-sized Abalone shell. The iridescent, opalescent colors of the upturned interior, with its magnificent polished surface of mother- of- pearl, are spectacular! An upturned abalone shell requires no further modification whatsoever, making it the ideal feeding station for the unhandy hobbyist who’s all thumbs.
Other aquarists reserve a small, transparent glass bowl or clear plastic receptacle for feeding their seahorses. They merely place the bowl or plastic container on the bottom of the tank at feeding time, add the enriched Mysis, and let their seahorses gather round and dine at their leisure as though eating from a feeding trough. A few hours later, the feeding container is removed, along with any leftovers. Quick and easy!
Seahorses most often pick up on the feeding station really quick once it’s introduced to the aquarium, but occasionally it’s necessary to train them where to go to get the goodies. There are a couple of fairly simple ways to accomplish that, which usually work pretty well.
One way is to target feed the seahorses with a turkey baster, and once they are eating from the baster well, use it to lead them to the new feeding station. The old-fashioned ones with the glass barrels work best because the seahorses can see the Mysis inside the baster all the way as it moves down the barrel and out the tip. By exerting just the right amount of pressure on the bulb, great precision is possible when target feeding with a turkey baster. By squeezing and releasing the bulb ever so slightly, a skillful target feeder can keep a piece of Mysis dancing at the very tip of the baster indefinitely, and hold the tempting morsel right in front of the seahorse’s mouth as long as necessary. If you can do that, it is an easy matter to hold a morsel of Mysis at the end of the baster, and use this tantalizing tidbit to lure the seahorse toward the new feeders by holding it just out of reach and leading the hungry seahorse in the direction you want him to go before you allow him to take the bait. This may have to be done in several steps, and it may take a while for you to get the seahorses accustomed to taking food from the baster before you start making much progress, but eventually you’ll have the pupil perched close enough to the new feeders for you to drop the dangling Mysis inside the feeding station before you allow them to slurp it up. This method takes time and patience, but it allows you to make sure the seahorses are getting plenty to eat while they make the transition to the new feeder. And it’s a gradual conditioning process that will eventually work with even the slowest learners. Net training is a similar technique that also works well and may be even easier to execute because it doesn’t require any skill with the baster. It involves first training the seahorses to eat the frozen Mysis from a small fish net (a fine-meshed brine shrimp net works best for this), which they learn to do rather readily. Once that is accomplished, the net serves as a portable feeding trough, which the seahorses will come to and follow anywhere in order to eat, so you simply use it to lead them to the new feeders. Your next step is to rest the net inside one of the new feeders while they eat from it.
After a few days of feeding them like that, you simply dump the Mysis from the net into the new feeder, and they will happily dine from there from then on. I know, I know — they say you can lead a horse to water but you can’t make him drink. That’s not a problem with these training techniques — believe me, when you lead seahorses to a new feeding station this way, these seagoing gluttons can’t wait to eat! The conditioning is usually easier than it sounds because you don’t have to train each individual seahorse to come to the feeder. They will usually learn as a group, or when one or two of them have got it down, the rest will quickly follow their example.