- This topic has 18 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 16 years, 8 months ago by Pete Giwojna.
January 12, 2007 at 4:57 am #1072ceresmaMember
I am in the process of setting up a 170 gal reef. what other life can I put in the reef (fish coral etc????) I am setting up a refugium in the sump Live rock in the main tank also live sand. Any advice would be appreciated
MarkJanuary 12, 2007 at 6:58 am #3266KrisGuest
Congrats on the tank! A 170 can house just about anything you want, provided you have an unlimited budget.
As far as fish, most tropical marine fish can be housed in a tank that size. Tangs, clown fish, angels and a few other’s are popular choices. Corals, you need to address lighting and flow for what ever you choose.
Personally I’d put Ingen’s or Pots in a tank that size, provided it had the hieght for them. An awesome herd of smaller seahorses could be kept in a tank that size. But, if you are planning a reef most SH can’t be housed with the inhabitants.
KrisJanuary 12, 2007 at 8:45 am #3267ceresmaGuest
Hi and thanks for the reply. I guess I wasn’t clear I want to house seahorses and fish / coral. Now any ideas?
MarkJanuary 12, 2007 at 9:23 am #3268LeslieGuest
Pete Giwojna just did a wonderful 2 part article in the Jan and Feb 2007 issues of Tropical Fish Hobbyist on Seahorses in a Reef Tank. I would suggest you start there. There is info on what sorts of fish and corals you can keep with seahorses.
LeslieJanuary 12, 2007 at 12:01 pm #3269carrieincoloradoGuest
Wow! You are setting up my dream tank! Awesome….you have many choices for stocking and Petes article should be perfect, but I will tell you what I have in my 40 gallon erectus tank:
1 pair mustang
1 pair sunburst
2 large colt corals
1 leather finger coral
1 flame scallop
2 ricordia mushrooms
unnumbered other mushrooms, yuma and florida
lots of zoos and polyps
1 red tree sponge(although not totally happy right now)
2 frilly mushrooms
2 orange gorgonian sea fans
2 candy cane coral frags, one purple and green and one neon green
red and green grape caulerpa
1 peppermint shrimp (currently in the CPR bac pac, but I plan to move him to the main tank as soon as I can catch him)
1 dart fish
1 horned blenny
1 small fromia starfish
2 blueleg hermit crabs
live sand and rock, including tonga branch for more hitching posts.
Let us know whar you end up getting! This was I can enjoy it vicariously… lol!January 12, 2007 at 8:42 pm #3270Pete GiwojnaGuest
A 170-gallon reef system can house a wonderful assortment of invertebrates and reef-safe fishes, including seahorses, and I would be happy to give you some pointers regarding which specimens may do well together.
Here here is some more information regarding seahorse-safe fish and inverts that make good companions for Hippocampus:
I have prepared a list of suitable fishes and invertebrates that generally make compatible tankmates for tropical seahorses below. Avoid fin nippers and aggressive, territorial fish that would be inclined to bully or physically abuse the seahorses, such as damsels, most clownfish, triggerfish, angels, puffers, cowfish and the like, as well as any predatory fishes that are large enough to swallow a seahorses, such as lionfish, anglers, sargassumfish, rays, large groupers and morays. For best results, other fishes that would not persecute the seahorses in any way should also generally be excluded because they are active, aggressive feeders that would out-compete the seahorses for food. This includes most butterflyfish, tangs, and wrasse. Stinging animals like anemones and jellyfish are unsuitable, as are other predatory invertebrates such as lobsters, mantis shrimp, certain starfish and most crabs.
Clownfish meet many of the criteria for suitable tankmates, but should generally be regarded with caution (Giwojna, Feb. 2004). Most species, such as Tomato Clowns (Amphiprion frenatus), Maroon Clowns (Premnas biaculeatus), and Skunk Clownfish are surprisingly aggressive and territorial, and should be shunned on that basis. Others do best when keep with anemones, which are a threat to seahorses. All clownfish are prone to Brooklynella and Marine Velvet (Amyloodinium), and should be considered Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans) magnets as well (Giwojna, Feb. 2004). The only species I would recommend as companions for seahorses are Percula Clowns (Amphiprion percula) and False Percula Clownfish (A. ocellaris), and then only after a rigorous quarantine period (Giwojna, Feb. 2004). Captive-bred specimens are best.
In short, fishes that are suitable as companions for seahorses must be docile, nonaggressive specimens, which are fairly deliberate feeders that won’t out-compete them for food. Some good candidates include:
Anthias (assorted Mirolabrichthys, Pseudanthias, and Anthias sp.)
Firefish Goby (Nemateleotris magnifica)
Purple Firefish Goby (Nemateleotris decora)
Gobies (assorted small species)
Neon Goby (Gobiosoma oceanops)
Assessors (Assessor spp.)
Midas Blenny (Ecsenius midas)
High Hats (Equetus acuminatus)
Marine Betta (Calloplesiops altivelis)
Banggai or Banner cardinals (Pterapogon kauderni)
Flame cardinals (Apogon pseudomaculatus)
Pajama cardinals (Apogon nematoptera)
Pipefishes (assorted small species)
Percula clownfish (Amphiprion percula)
False percula clownfish (Amphiprion ocellaris)
Royal Grammas (Gramma loreto)
Blackcap Basslets (Gramma melacara)
Green Chromis (Chromis viridis)
Blue Reef Chromis (Chromis cyaneus)
Longnose Hawkfish (Oxycirrhites typus)
Six Line Wrasse (Psuedocheilinus hexataenia)
Flasher Wrasse (Paracheilinus sp.)
Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus spp.)
Scooter Blennies (Synchiropus spp.)
Green Mandarin Goby or Dragonet (Pterosynchiropus splendidus)
Psychedelic Mandarin Goby or Dragonet (Pterosynchiropus picturatus)
Orchid Dottyback (Pseudochromis fridmani) – avoid other Pseudochromis species!
Mandarin gobies or dragonets (Pterosynchiropus spp.) are peaceful, deliberate feeders with brilliant colors that do well with seahorses and often even learn to accept frozen Mysis in time. But they are best reserved for very large, well-established aquaria with lots of live rock that supports an adequate population of copepods and amphipods to sustain them. Your 170-gallon aquarium reef tank with lots of live rock would be a suitable habitat for a Mandarin dragonet, Mark, but first the tank would need to mature and stabilize and build up a sizable population of pods
Good inverts for seahorses include decorative cleaner shrimp like those listed below:
Peppermint Shrimp (Lysmata wurdemanni)
Scarlet Cleaner Shrimp or Skunk Cleaner Shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis)
Fire Shrimp (Lysmata debelius)
Harlequin Shrimp (Hymenocerus elegans and H. picta) – predatory on sea stars;
large ornamental snails (living sea shells) such as the following:
Tiger Cowry (Cypraea tigris)
Deer Cowry (Cypraea cervus)
Assorted Feather Dusters (Sabellastatre magnifica, Sabella sp.) whose colorful crowns resemble gaily-colored parasols.
By no means is this intended to be a comprehensive compilation. It is intended merely to give the hobbyist an idea of the types of fishes and inverts that generally make suitable tankmates for seahorses. But there are many more seahorse-safe fish and invertebrates that could have been added to the list, and no doubt many aquarists would disagree about some of the species that have been included.
Be that as it may, there is one very important precaution that should always be observed when contemplating keeping seahorses with other fishes:
(1) All fishes that are intended as tankmates for seahorses MUST be quarantined first without exception. For the same reasons we discussed earlier with regard to wild-caught seahorses, any fish you bring home from your LFS is a potential disease vector for all manner of nasty pathogens and parasites, and you need to take every possible precaution to prevent these from being introduced to your display tank.
Here are some additional guidelines that may give you a better idea as to which corals are compatible and which types you should avoid in your seahorse reef:
Setting Up a Reef Tank for Seahorses.
Seahorses typically thrive in the right type of reef system, which provides them with pristine water quality, plenty of roam to roam, and a colorful, natural setting that makes them feel right at home. The multicolored background will keep them looking their best and brightest, and nothing makes a more breathtaking exhibit than brilliant yellow and orange seahorses lazily gliding amidst the lovely corals, polyps and gorgonia in a well-established minireef, much like the butterflies adorning a beautiful flower garden.
But the hobbyist who wants to keep seahorses in a reef system must be willing to make some concessions to accommodate their special needs. For example, the reef keeper must be willing to limit himself to corals and invertebrates that meet the following criteria:
1) Avoid any stinging animals with powerful nematocysts. This means fire corals, anemones, and any corals with polyps that feel sticky to the touch must be excluded. When a seahorse brushes up against them or attempts to perch on them, the nematocysts or stinging cells of these animals can penetrate the seahorse’s skin and damage its integument. Needless to say, this causes pain and discomfort and can leave the seahorse vulnerable to secondary bacterial and fungal infections, which may take hold at the site of injury. Beware of large polyped stony (LPS) corals in particular. These include genera such as Catalaphyllia, Cynarina, Euphyllia and Trachyphyllia that have large fleshy polyps which often have tentacles equipped with powerful stinging cells..
2) The corals must be able to thrive with moderate light levels and relatively low to moderate water movement or current. Corals that require overly strong water currents are unsuitable for tanks with seahorses because the seahorses are feeble swimmers and often cannot cope with powerful currents unless there are slack water areas the can retreat to when needed.
3) The corals must be able to withstand being used as hitching posts by the seahorses from time to time; that is, they cannot be so delicate that having a seahorse’s grasping tail anchored around them could cause them any harm. For instance, soft corals may retract their polyps when a seahorse perches on them. This can be harmful to their health if it becomes a chronic problem, because the corals rely on their polyps to absorb light and convert it to energy via photosynthesis. Be sure to watch any soft corals and make sure they are not closed up for extended periods. Normally, they adjust to the seahorses’ presence and unwelcome attention after a while, and remain contracted only briefly after each contact. After repeated exposures to grasping tails, each such incident elicits a weaker response, so they tend to extend their polyps sooner and sooner after being disturbed.
4) Avoid Tridacna clams and similar bivalve mollusks. Sooner or later a seahorse will perch on them with its tail between the valves and the clam’s powerful adductor muscle will clamp down on it like a vise. At best this will be a very stressful experience for the unfortunate seahorse; it can be the devil’s own business trying to persuade the stubborn mollusk to release its struggling victim! At worst, it can result in serious injury or permanent damage to the seahorses tail.
5) Beware of unwanted hitchhikers that may have come in on your live rock unbeknownst to you and which can harm seahorses, such as fireworms, mantis shrimp, or Aptasia rock anemones. When setting up a reef system for seahorses, it’s a wise precaution to pre-treat your live rock with a hypersaline drip and/or a dose of fenbendazole to eliminate such pests beforehand because they can be very difficult to remove or eradicate once they make themselves at home in your aquarium.
6) Small powerheads can be used to create and direct water currents wherever needed — just be sure to screen off the intake for the sake of your seahorses. Seahorses tolerate moderate currents very well providing there are sheltered spots and slack water areas they can retreat to when desired.
Soft corals have very little stinging ability and generally make good choices for a modified mini reef that will include seahorses. This includes most zoanthids and mushroom anemones (corallimorpharians) in general. However, as Charles Delbeek cautions, "One notable exception is the elephant ear mushroom anemone (Amplexidiscus fenestrafer). This animal is an active feeder on small fish and will envelope them whole with its mantle then slowly digest them by extruding its digestive filaments into the space created. No small fish are safe with these animals in the tank.". Some of the soft corals that generally do well with seahorses in a low/moderate light, low/moderate flow reef tank with PC lighting are listed below:
Finger Leather Coral (Lobophyton sp.)
Flower Tree Coral – Red / Orange, (Scleronephthya spp.)
aka: Scleronephthya Strawberry Coral, or Pink or Orange Cauliflower Coral
Christmas Tree Coral (Sphaerella spp.)
aka: the Medusa Coral, Snake Locks Coral, or French Tickler
Cauliflower Colt Coral (Cladiella sp.)
aka: Colt Coral, Soft Finger Leather Coral, Seaman’s Hands or Blushing Coral.
Toadstool Mushroom Leather Coral (Sarcophyton sp.)
aka: Sarcophyton Coral, Mushroom, Leather, or Trough Corals.
Bullseye Mushroom Coral (Rhodactis inchoata)
aka: Tonga Blue Mushroom, Small Elephant Ear Mushroom (rarely)
Clove Polyps (Clavularia sp.)
Stick Polyp (Parazoanthus swiftii)
Green Daisy Polyps (Clavularia sp.), Indonesia
Orange & Green Colony Button Polyps (Zooanthus sp.), Fiji
Pulsing Corals (Xenia spp.)
Red Ricordea (Ricordea sp.), Indonesia, occasionally Solomon Islands
Lavender Hairy Mushroom (Actinodiscus sp.), Tonga
Pimpled Mushroom (Discosoma sp.), Indonesia
Other low light corals that should be suitable include genera such as Cynarina, Scolymia and Trachyphyllia, as well as non-photosynthetic gorgonians such as Subergorgia and Didogorgia, and perhaps wire corals such as Cirripathes spp.. However, supplemental feedings of zooplankton may be required to maintain these corals in good health.
The small polyped stony (SPS) corals generally have weak stings that should not pose a threat to seahorses. Depending on conditions in the tank, SPS corals such as Acropora, Montipora, Pocillipora, Porities, Seriatopora and Stylophora can be tried at your discretion.
The two part series of articles that Leslie mentioned on keeping seahorses in reef tanks, which is now running in the January and February 2007 tissues of Tropical Fish Hobbyist Magazine, provides much greater detail regarding the best way to seahorse-proof a reef tank and stock it with suitable seahorses and specimens, including water circulation and lighting systems. If you have any trouble locating copies of the magazine articles, just let me know and I would be happy to e-mail the text of the manuscript from the articles to you. You would miss out on Leslie’s magnificent photographs, but at least you would have the information you need to prepare your reef system for seahorses. You can contact me off list at the following e-mail address: [email protected]
I think it’s an excellent idea to include a refugium/sump in your reef tank, Mark, and I would suggest that you set it up as a dual-chamber sump with an algal filter as described below:
The Aquarium Sump
A sump is simply a large external, watertight container connected to your aquarium so that both the aquarium and the sump share the same water supply. Most sumps are smaller aquariums that are set in place beneath the main tank and connected to it with PVC pipes or tubing.
There are many advantages to adding a sump to your seahorse setup. For starters, it increases the overall water volume of your system with all the benefits that implies. A good-sized sump can easily double your carrying capacity, increasing your safety margin accordingly. It makes an ideal place to put a protein skimmer, heater(s), air stones, and other equipment so they don’t have to be hidden in the display tank. (A well-designed sump does a great job of trapping and eliminating the microbubbles emitted from skimmers and preventing them from entering the aquarium, and provides an excellent way of increasing the aeration/oxygenation, which is so important for a seahorse setup.) It’s the perfect place to perform additional mechanical and chemical filtration, tailoring the filter media to meet ones exact needs, or to add a calcium or nitrate reactor or even a Deep Live Sand Bed (DLSB) to your seahorse setup. Because the sump is a large body of water separated from the aquarium itself, it facilitates water changes, dosing supplements, adding top-off water to the tank and other maintenance tasks, all of which can be carried out in the sump without disturbing the main tank or stressing its inhabitants. Entire sections of the mechanical filtration can be cleaned at one time without affecting your primary biofilter, and water changes can be performed gradually without causing stress to the fish or invertebrates. A sump/refugium can also be used to grow a lush bed of macroalgae using a reverse lighting cycle to stabilize the pH and absorb wastes.
To take advantage of these benefits, I suggest adding a two-chambered sump to your tank. This can be accomplished by installing a perforated tank divider across the width of the sump, thereby separating it into two isolated compartments. One side accommodates all of your equipment (in-sump skimmer, return pump, heaters, titanium grounding probe, UV sterilizer, etc.) while the other side can be used to establish a deep live sand bed (DLSB) with plenty of Caulerpa, or better yet Chaetomorpha spaghetti algae and/or Gracilaria. The DLSB/macroalgae side serves as a refugium and will soon become populated with countless critters (copepods, Gammarus and other amphipods, larval crustaceans, etc.). With the Caulerpa/Chaetomorpha acting as an algal filter and the anaerobic layers of DLSB providing denitrification, the aquarist never need be concerned about nitrates or nuisance algae with this type of sump/refugium.
In addition, the biological refugium/sump can be maintained on an opposite light cycle to the main tank to offset the daily fluctuations in pH, photosynthesis, dissolved oxygen/carbon dioxide, and redox levels that otherwise occur in the aquarium. Daily variances in chemical, physical and biological phenomena are a fact of life in aquaria, linked to the light and dark cycles and the diurnal rhythms of captive aquatic systems. As one example, the pH of aquarium water typically peaks after the lights have been on all day at a maximum of perhaps 8.4, only to drop to low of below 8.0 overnight. This is related to photosynthesis and the fact that zooanthellae and green plants consume CO2 and produce O2 when there is adequate light, but in essence reverse that process in the dark, consuming O2 and giving off CO2. Redox levels, available calcium and other water quality parameters are affected in similar ways. Needless to say, these variations are far greater is a small, closed-system aquarium than they are in the ocean, so it’s beneficial to minimize such fluctuations by reversing the photoperiod in the main display and the sump/refugium. This is easily accomplished by timing the lighting in the sump so that the bed of macroalgae is illuminated after dark when the lights on the display tank are off, and vice versa. Just use alternating timers on the main tank and the refugium tank so that when one is on, the other is off. Voila! Just like that the roller coaster ride is over: no more daily fluctuations in pH or highs and lows in calcium levels, oxygen minima, or peaks and valleys in redox potential. Or you can easily accomplish the same thing simply by keeping the Chaetomorpha or Caulerpa algae bed of illuminated 24/7, around the clock.
Because it is separate from the main system yet shares the same water, the sump/refugium can also be used as a nifty acclimation tank for new arrivals or a handy isolation tank for separating incompatible specimens. For seahorse keepers, the refugium compartment of a divided sump or dual chamber sump makes an ideal grow-out tank for juvenile seahorses that have outgrown their nurseries but are still too small to be kept in the main tank. A dual-chamber sump is a very versatile design that lends itself to multiple purposes. Just use your imagination.
Best of luck with your new reef system, Mark!
Pete GiwojnaJanuary 12, 2007 at 9:15 pm #3271ceresmaGuest
Thanks for the great responses. I got a subscription yesterday to TFH and I will stop by a pet store today to hopefully pick up the current issue(s). Failing that I will take you up on th eoffer to send me the text via e-mail. Is it safe to buy and have seahorses shipped? Should I try to find some locally? I think I’m hoohed on the seahorse plan and it seems like there ar eplenty of interesting tankmates. I will however miss anemone/clown relationship however in my last tank the clowns actually liked the leather coral better. I also will miss my snowflake eel. Thanks again
MarkJanuary 13, 2007 at 2:03 am #3272ageberGuest
Here is my opinion on the seahorses. There is only one place to really buy them and that is Ocean rider. I had purchased seahorses a few times locally when i first started and paid anywhere from 60.00 to 150 each. I lost each one anywhere from 1 week to 1 month after purchasing them. They stopped eating, stress, any number of reasons, they just did not make it. My forst ones from ocean rider were purchased about the same time as the store bought ones. They are still alive and doing well and were in the same enviroment as the ones i bought at various times from various stores. Most people I have encountered locally talk about how expensive the OR seahorses are which I find kind of funny, reason being is paying $60.00 for a new seahorse once a month from the local pet shop less expensive than a 1 time purchase of just about the same price. The OR specials work out to actually less money and the horses arrive in great health. I just recieved today 2 more sunbursts juveniles. They are beautiful and healthy. This brings my group to 8 from oceanrider, all alive and well. 4 from the LFS, all deceased.
hope this helps youJanuary 13, 2007 at 2:09 am #3273ceresmaGuest
how many would you start with 1 pair maybe 2????
ThanksJanuary 13, 2007 at 3:49 am #3274ageberGuest
I dont think anyone can really say how many to start with because only you know what you want to afford. I took advantage of their 2 pair special to start with and then after I was comfortable with taking care of the seahorses I added more. I am certainly not an expert here as I have only had them for a few months but mine are doing excellent right now. colors are great and getting better everydayJanuary 13, 2007 at 4:00 am #3276Pete GiwojnaGuest
You’re very welcome to the information, sir! The February 2007 issue of Tropical Fish Hobbyist magazine just hit the newsstands recently, so you should have no trouble obtaining a copy of part two of my article on keeping seahorses in reef tanks. Hopefully, you’ll still be able to pick up a copy of part one in the January 2007 issue of TFH at your LFS too, or perhaps a bookstore or library that carries periodicals. If not, just let me know I’ll get the manuscript to you ASAP.
Yes, sir, ordering your seahorses directly from Ocean Rider and having them delivered to your doorstep is not a problem at all. Ocean rider has been shipping seahorses throughout the continental United States all year round since 1999 with no difficulties whatsoever. In my opinion, is always better to order your seahorses directly from the breeder rather than to go through any middlemen or to shop for specimens at your LFS.
The problem with obtaining seahorses from your LFS is that they are typically maintained in aquaria that share a common filtration system with all of the other fish tanks in the store. Of course, those other fish tanks house a wide selection of wild fish that have been collected from all around the world, and any pathogens or parasites those wild fishes may have been carrying can be transmitted through the common water supply to the seahorses. That makes fish from your LFS seahorses potential disease vectors for a whole laundry list of disease organisms and makes it mandatory to quarantine such specimens before they are introduced to your display tank. There’s no telling for certain whether the seahorses you obtain from your LFS are captive-bred-and-raised, pen raised, or collected from the wild. The pet shop staff are often unfamiliar with the specialized needs and requirements of seahorses, and the pet shop ponies are often fed poorly, if at all.
In general, you’re much better off ordering your seahorses directly from the breeder — particularly if they were raised at a High-Health aquaculture facility such as Ocean Rider — in which case you can be sure that they will reach you well-fed and in top condition. One of the greatest advantages of Ocean Rider seahorses have over pet shop ponies (or other cultured seahorses, for that matter) is that they are born and raised at an aquaculture facility with High-Health certification. You may not be fully aware of what that means or why that’s important, Mark.. High Health certification is very difficult to achieve, which is which OR is the one and only seahorse farm to be awarded High Health status. In order to earn High Health Certification, an aquacultural facility must first prove that it enforces a strict biosecurity program with rigorous quarantine protocols, and that at no stage in the breeding and rearing process are its livestock ever exposed to open systems or wild-caught seahorses. Secondly, it must withstand intense scrutiny by outside agencies — in this case, primarily from the Controlling State Aquatic Veterinary industry. The monitoring done by these Aquatic Health Specialists includes regular sampling of Ocean Rider livestock for complete necroscopic examinations. Periodically, OR seahorses are selected at random by the State Controlling Vet, euthanized, and autopsied. Their internal organs are examined, tissue sections are taken (multi-organ histopathology), and examined microscopically, along with other laboratory analyses.
In short, you needn’t be concerned about ordering your seahorses from Ocean Rider and having them shipped directly to your doorstep on the day that you specify, sir. Let me know when you are ready to place your order and I will provide you with detailed instructions explaining how to acclimate your new arrivals in order to assure that all goes well.
Best of luck with your new reef system, Mark!
Pete GiwojnaJanuary 13, 2007 at 4:09 am #3277ceresmaGuest
Once again Thanks for your extremely complete replys (Pete and all) Pete did TFH ever print your book?
MarkJanuary 13, 2007 at 4:43 am #3278carrieincoloradoGuest
I’ve never bought a seahorse from a LFS, but my neighbor did once, and at the time that they were moving the poor thing was suffering from GBS and couldn’t do anything but float at the top of the tank. I tried to give them advice on treatment, but with their cross country move they didn’t have the time (or effort) to do anything. Don”t know how it ever fared…..
I bought the mustang/sunburst special. My horses took 2 days to get here, as I live in rural Colorado and there just isn’t overnight service from Kona to here. I was SO worried about them. When they arrived the only one that looked worse for wear was the pregnant male mustang and THE VERY NEXT MORNING I had 43 fry in the tank, and he looked MUCH better… lol! I would like to go with a pair of Barbouri in the near future, and then my tank would be fully stocked. I’ve had them for 8 1/2 weeks now, and they are SO smart. Their names are:
Zack and Zoe, and
Jack and Chloe.
They are awesome. I’ve looked at many different sites and considered buying a seahorse from some other captive bred places, but I think my final decision is made, and once I can afford it, I am ordering a barb pair from OR. I might wait until Spring, so the weather is more stable.
Best of luck and keep us updated!January 24, 2007 at 11:30 pm #3335ceresmaGuest
I went into Petsmart this morning …… Don’t boo me. They had the January issue of TFH. What a great seahorse article with outstanding photos! I already had the February issue. I finially found something to buy at petsmart!
MarkJanuary 25, 2007 at 2:56 am #3338KrisGuest
:laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
I love Petsmart!
Although I could teach most of the employies a thing or 2. That’s where I buy my dogfood.
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