June 12, 2019 at 8:19 am #39280tlskahanParticipant
I posted on the forum about my new pinto seahorse having a sore tail two months ago. You suggested that he may have gotten stung by something in my tank, like Aiptasia. I found a great number of glass anemone’s and purchased 20 Berghia nudibranch to eliminate the problem. I no longer see any Aiptasia in my tank.
I treated all my of my herd for 20 days 2 months ago with PE Mysis enhanced with KanaPlex & NeoPlex, Focus, and then soaked in Garlic Guard. My little Pinto seemed all right; eating ferociously, swimming, courting and dancing, HOWEVER, I noticed that he NEVER hitched with the end of his tail (about 1/4″ from the tip) and still darted upward if that part of his tail came in contact with anything.
This last Friday there was a noticeable decrease in his feeding. He eats from my bulb syringe, staying away from the craziness at the feeder so it is easy to observe his eating habits. Today I noticed two white balls on that part of his tail. They were not furry, like Ick, but more like the small snail/barnacles on the wall of my tank. I caught him and gently used my fingers to remove them from his tail, to which he reacted with EXTREME distress, whipping his tail away from me, bucking, and darting. It was as if the pain was excruciating. The white spots balls DID come off. I can’t see any visible lesions or infection, but he is always protecting that part of his tail.
He hitches to my artificial sponge and finger corals which are periodically removed from the tank and treated with a mild bleach solution, rinsed thoroughly and then soaked overnite in Instant Ocean’s “Marine Conditioner” to neutralize any chlorine or chloramine. He avoids all the live rock ALWAYS. None of my other ponies have had any issue like this. Pete, I’m not sure what to do next. I am inclined to treat him and the whole tank with the same treatment I did two months ago?? I was wondering if I could apply Neosporin to the sore part of his tail? Or, is there something else that would be better than what I have already done? I have a hospital tank long cycled and available if I my treat the water, BUT, I’m not sure that he would have resistance to the potentially different bacterial spectrum in that tank even after I change out 1/2 the water with my main tank water?
I would greatly appreciate your help, Pete. This little guy (Tigger) has really endeared himself to me. I would be devastated if anything happened to him.
June 12, 2019 at 8:20 am #39702Pete GiwojnaModerator
It’s difficult to say with any degree of certainty what the two white balls on the hypersensitive tip of Tigger’s tail may be that caused so much pain and stress when you removed them, but I would be happy to share my thoughts on the matter with you.
For starters, let’s review some of the possibilities. A suspicious ball or bump on a seahorse could be a granuloma. For example, pyogranulatomous cysts are often described as pimplelike bumps or nodules and can be symptoms of serious bacterial infections such as white tail disease.
Or the white balls could be bacterial or fungal lesions related to the white tail disease that Tigger has been battling, Tamra. Such lesions often protrude above the surrounding tissue like a scar does.
Like all fish, seahorses do occasionally develop various granulomas, tumors and fibrosarcomas associated with certain diseases or the aging process, so that’s a possibility that must be considered whenever there are any suspicious growths detected on a pony, although I think that’s very unlikely in this case, Tamra. Often these growths are benign and harmless, but they can also develop malignant neoplasms and cancerous tumors on rare occasions. However, Tigger seems way too young to have developed any such tumors, Tamra.
Rather, it could be that the two white balls are due to a harmless viral infection (e.g., Lymphocystis or papilloma). Many such growths are harmless, just like the warts we occasionally develop. Lymphocystis results in white-ish to grayish cauliflower-like growths that sprout up suddenly. They appear most often on the fins but may also develop on other parts of the body. Again there is no treatment, but Lymphocystis is harmless and the growths will often disappear as suddenly as they appeared.
Likewise, it’s not uncommon for marine animals to contract wartlike papilloma virus infections these days, so it’s possible the white balls could simply be papillomas. If that’s the case, a wart-like viral infection such as papilloma will not respond to any readily available medications and I can suggest no treatment, which is not really a problem since they are essentially harmless and there is no need to intervene in any case…
Most likely, the two white balls are related to Tigger’s white tail disease, which is of course a far greater problem at this point and the likely reason that he has lost his appetite and appears to be going downhill.
Since the white tail disease responded well to the oral antibiotics (KanoPlex and NeoPlex soaked in garlic guard), Tamra, I certainly see no reason why you can’t administer another regimen of these medications in the same manner. The Garlic Guard does act as an appetite stimulant, which may encourage him to eat the medicated Mysis…
For what it’s worth, I also sent you information on other medications that are sometimes useful when treating white tail disease or tail rot as an attachment to an email, Tamra. Hopefully, one of the medications discussed in the attached information may be helpful in addressing Tigger’s tender tail and white tail disease.
Neosporin can be applied as a topical treatment, but it is likely to be stressful and painful to Tigger to apply it to his hypersensitive tail, so I don’t know how helpful that would be…
If you do decide to set up your hospital tank, Tamra, then there is one treatment that could possibly be helpful in addressing the two white balls that you removed, which would involve treating your hospital tank with Instant Ocean Lifeguard.
Here’s the rundown on the Instant Ocean Lifeguard and how to administer it properly. In a case like this, when it’s unclear whether you are dealing with a bacterial infection, a fungal problem, or a mixed infection, treatment with Instant Ocean Lifeguard in your hospital tank or quarantine tank is a good place to start. Instant Ocean Lifeguard is easy to use, inexpensive, and often available at local fish stores, including Petco and Petsmart retail stores so it is easy to obtain, allowing you to begin treatment promptly, which is very important for obtaining good results. The product may have a variety of different names depending on where you purchase it, including Instant Ocean Lifeguard, Instant Ocean Lifeguard Saltwater, or Instant Ocean Lifeguard All-in-One Marine Remedy. It is effective in treating mouth and fin rot, and white tail disease/tail rot is caused by the same sort of bacteria that cause fin rot and mouth rot and other fishes.
Here is some more information explaining the type of problems Instant Ocean Lifeguard is often effective in treating and how to use the medication:
Instant Ocean Lifeguard
Instant Ocean Lifeguard Saltwater tablets with HaloShield® attack a broad range of external fish diseases in saltwater aquariums including bacterial, fungal, viral, and parasitic. It’s HaloShield®, a revolutionary non-antibiotic agent, that makes LIFEGUARD pre-measured tablets so tough on harmful disease-causing microorganisms.
It is made by Instant Ocean, it is specifically for marine use and treats the following: ick, oodinium, fungus,milky or shedding slime,bacterial gill disease, mouth and fin rot, clamped or torn fins, and ulcers.
Safeguard tanks with LIFEGUARD! One tablet treats 10 gallons of water, recommended treatment is for five days.
Keep your aquatic pets healthy and fit with Instant Ocean LIFEGUARD All-In-One Marine Remedy. This therapeutic treatment is ideal for marine fish and treats clinical signs of diseases in its earliest stages. HaloShield® eliminates disease-causing microorganisms, and each tablet is premeasured for precise dosage and dissolves easily in water. Instant Ocean Lifeguard Saltwater is effective against marine Ick & Oodinium.
Ideal for use with marine fish
Treats a range of diseases, including bacterial, fungal, viral and parasitic conditions
HaloShield destroys disease-causing microorganisms
Effective against marine ick and oodinium
Tablets are premeasured and dissolve easily
Add 1 tablet per day to each 10 gal. of water
Made in the USA
Active ingredients: 1-chloro-2,2,5,5-tetramethyl-4-imidazolidinone.
Before treatment, remove filter carbon and turn off proteins skimmer and UV sterilizer. Add one tablet per day to each 10 US gallons of aquarium water using the enclosed treatment apparatus. Use treatment for 5 consecutive days, at 24-hour intervals. For best results, after 5-day treatment is complete, wait 24 hours (day 6), then return activated carbon and turn on UV sterilizer. Perform a 25% water change using a dechlorinator and a bacteria-enzyme to condition aquarium water. To treat smaller aquariums, break tablet along score lines. Each 1/4 tablet treats 2-1/2 US gallons.
Keep out of reach of children. For aquarium use only. Not for use on food fish. Not suitable for invertebrates or newly set up aquariums. Some macroalgae may show sensitivity. Use only as directed. Do not overdose. If overdose occurs, add carbon or dechlorinator as directed for immediate neutralization.
Available in a 16 pack
Okay, that’s the scoop on the Instant Ocean Lifeguard, Tamra. It is not reef-safe or safe to use with the invertebrates, so you can’t use it in your main tank – only a quarantine tank or hospital tank. Also, be sure to keep the treatment tank well aerated since you must not operate your protein skimmer during the five-day treatment.
Pete Giwojna, Ocean Rider Tech Support
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