- This topic has 7 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 16 years, 8 months ago by Pete Giwojna.
September 10, 2006 at 12:26 am #926HaynesMember
Thanks for your thoughts on the change in color of my sunburst. I have been thinking of upgrading the size of the tank and also adding another pair of sunbursts. Could I keep the following in a 30 18in. tall 36 long aquarium: two pairs of sunbursts, my yasha hashe goby/tiger pistol shrimp, skunk cleaner and two peppermint shrimp? Unfortunately I cannot go much taller because of a space limitation, but that could be fixed if I absolutely had to. Oh and another thing, how much light is too much for sunbursts? I have 190watts on my thirty gallon right now, is this too much? I would apprieceate your thoughts and coments. Thank you so much, you guys are the best!!!!:)
Post edited by: Haynes, at: 2006/09/10 09:37
Post edited by: Haynes, at: 2006/09/10 17:47September 10, 2006 at 10:30 pm #2850Pete GiwojnaGuest
Yes, sir, a well-filtered 30-gallon aquarium should be able to accommodate all of your decorative shrimp, goby and two pairs of Sunbursts without any problems.
However, if possible, a 30 gallon tall aquarium would be preferable for your seahorses to a 30 gallon long aquarium. If you can manage it, Haynes, I would suggest the 30 gallon Extra-High aquarium by All Glass, with the following dimensions: 24"L x 12"W x 24"H. Tanks that are significantly shorter than 20 inches tall are sometimes prone to problems with gas bubble syndrome.
Otherwise, the 30-gallon aquarium you are considering would certainly be a nice upgrade, and if it is the same height as the seahorse tank you’re using now, I would go ahead and make the move to the larger aquarium regardless. But it would be great if you could upgrade to a tank that was taller as well as bigger in volume.
Unless you’re planning on keeping live corals, 190 W is more lighting than you really need for a seahorse setup, so feel free to tone it down a bit if you like. As you know, when it comes to lighting, seahorses do not have any special requirements other than the fact that most species prefer low to moderate light levels rather than excessively bright light. They have a corrugated retina especially rich in rods, which gives them excellent visual acuity under twilight conditions and low light levels in general. But this does not mean that they shun bright light, just that they appreciate shady retreats as well as brightly illuminated areas.
In actual practice, seahorses will do well under any type of lighting you prefer — from metal halides to power compacts or VHO lighting to daylight fluorescent tubes to ambient room light — providing shaded areas are available to them and overheating does not become a problem.
For all intents and purposes, you really can’t go wrong no matter what lighting system you chose as long as you provide both shaded areas where your seahorses can escape from light altogether and well-lit areas where they can bathe in bright light as they please. You will find your seahorses will move into and out of the light often, seeking the comfort level that suits them at the moment.
Best of luck with your Sunburst, Haynes!
Pete GiwojnaSeptember 12, 2006 at 7:57 am #2853llovelessGuest
Something else to consider in lighting is algae. The brighter the light the more luxurious alge grows. If you have macro-algae increased lighting may be helpful on the other hand it really accelerates hair algae growth.
LawrenceSeptember 14, 2006 at 1:36 am #2857nigelseahorseGuest
Could two Sunburst pairs live in a 20 gallon if water is changed every week?September 14, 2006 at 2:28 pm #2858Pete GiwojnaGuest
Shorty and Leslie are both correct — a well-filtered 20-gallon aquarium with sufficient height could support two pairs of Sunbursts if you practice good aquarium management and keep up with an accelerated maintenance schedule, but that’s not something that I would recommend for anyone who is new to seahorses.
The suggested stocking density for Mustangs and Sunbursts (Hippocampus erectus) is one pair per 10 gallons of water volume. Of course, that does not mean that you can keep H. erectus and a 10-gallon aquarium; rather, those are just general guidelines that indicate if you have a properly maintained 30-gallon aquarium, for example, it is spacious enough for up to three pairs or six individual Mustangs or Sunbursts. So a well-filtered, well-maintained 20-gallon aquarium could theoretically support two pairs of Sunbursts, but an inexperienced seahorse keeper should not attempt to keep his tank stocked to capacity.
If you’re a rank beginner, you will be better off keeping your stable under stocked in order to provide a margin of error while you learn the ropes with these amazing aquatic equines. Savvy seahorse pros who’ve seen it all before and know all the tricks and trouble spots, on the other hand, can afford to push the envelope a bit and keep their herds near capacity (Giwojna, Jan. 2002). In other words, an experienced seahorse keeper could maintain two pairs of Mustangs or Sunbursts (Hippocampus erectus) without problems, but that would not be advisable for your first serious attempt at keeping seahorses.
As always, be sure to remember the three golden rules that should always guide your actions when stocking any seahorse setup:
I. Under stocking is ALWAYS better than over stocking. Always! That is the one immutable law that governs the seahorse-keeping universe, and if you violate it, the aquarium gods will exact swift and terrible retribution!
II. When in doubt, under stock. Don’t push your luck! If you have any doubt whatsoever as to whether or not your system is running at capacity, it probably is. In such a situation, you MUST err on the side of caution.
III. Don’t mess with success! If your seahorse setup has been running smoothly and trouble-free for a prolonged period at it’s present level of occupancy, try to resist the temptation to increase your herd. Why risk upsetting the balance in a system that has settled into a state of happy equilibrium? Rather than risk overcrowding an established tank, consider starting up a new aquarium when the urge to acquire some new specimens becomes overwhelming.
When stocking your aquarium, consider these golden rules to be your commandments. Obey them, and your system should flourish. Surely goodness and mercy shall follow thee all of thy days. Break them, and you will soon find yourself teetering on the brink of disaster. Abandon all hope ye whom embark down that dark road to ruin.
Best wishes with all your fishes, Nigel!
Pete GiwojnaSeptember 14, 2006 at 5:44 pm #2859nigelseahorseGuest
I am not new to seahorses but i will start out with one pair and go from that. By te way do you still offer juvies? i have never raised fry before exept once my Zulus had babies , unfortunently the fry are small and similar in color to the gravel.:( Can the erectus fryeat BBS right after birth? IF not i have a sorce for rotifers but it ain’t cheap! I’m getting ahead arn’t i well thanks.September 14, 2006 at 5:44 pm #2860nigelseahorseGuest
I am not new to seahorses but i will start out with one pair and go from that. By te way do you still offer juvies? i have never raised fry before exept once my Zulus had babies , unfortunently the fry are small and similar in color to the gravel.:( Can the erectus fryeat BBS right after birth? IF not i have a sorce for rotifers but it ain’t cheap! I’m getting ahead arn’t i well thanks.September 15, 2006 at 8:35 pm #2869Pete GiwojnaGuest
Okay, that sounds like a plan, sir! I would start out with a pair of the highly domesticated Mustangs, and then you can consider adding a pair of Sunburst down the road once you have gained a little more experience and seahorse savvy working with the Mustangs.
Mustangs (Hippocampus erectus) average around 1 cm in length when they are born and are therefore able to eat newly-hatched brine shrimp (Artemia nauplii) as their first foods, so there will be no need to spring for those expensive rotifers when your Mustangs and/or Sunburst begin breeding.
Best of luck with your new seahorse setup, Nigel!
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