- This topic has 1 reply, 2 voices, and was last updated 16 years, 9 months ago by Pete Giwojna.
May 19, 2007 at 11:21 am #1203FERS4REEFMember
Hi, Pete I\’m confidant now my ich problems irradicated.After my erectus died I went ahead and dropped the salinity down even further.Plus added a local medication called kick ich.My question today is I just ordered 2 packs of vibrance.But I think I bought the wrong one.I\’m feeding frozen mysis.So which one should I use?does it matter? I ordered vibrance one.Should I have ordered 2.Does it help build a high immune system?Does it help finicky ponies to become more interested in the food?Some advice would be hot.I\’ve got 2 more ponies.1 reidi And 1 barbouri.The reidi eats frozen brine ,mysis pretty much anything I\’ve feed it.The Barbouri ate frozen mysis in the quarintine tank for a long while.When I put the them in the main tank the barbouri seemed to enjoy the abundance of the live amphipods,and copepods that were there now it seems like he won\’t eat anything else.Any suggestions on how to get him of the copepod diet.There very expensive here in florida and hard to buy.Noone here just sells them.I thank you for any input you may have.THANKS ALOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!May 20, 2007 at 6:04 am #3593Pete GiwojnaGuest
It’s good to hear that you seem to have gotten your ich problems under control. Be aware, however, that waves of reinfestation every 3-7 days are to be expected with this parasite, so you’ll need to maintain the treatment for at least two weeks to make sure you have eradicated all stages of the life cycle of Cryptocaryon irritans. I usually maintain hyposalinity for about six weeks when treating a tank for ectoparasites.
Both Vibrance formulations include beta glucan and will therefore help boost the seahorses’ immune system, improve their disease resistance, and help them fight off disease. It does make a difference which of the Vibrance formulas you use, however, since one of them is a high-fat or lipid-rich enrichment product while the other one is a low-fat formulation. Which Vibrance formulation is best suited for your needs depends on how old your seahorses are, whether they are still growing or have already reached maturity, and whether or not they are actively breeding, as discussed below:
Among other things, Vibrance II includes beta-glucan, pure Astaxanthin, carotenoids, water-soluble vitamin C, and various other vitamins and minerals in the proper proportions. It is a no-fat formulation intended for enriching frozen Mysis. As such, it’s perfect for fortifying frozen Mysis, further enhancing their nutritional value while safeguarding against hepatic lipidosis (fatty liver disease).
The original Vibrance (i.e., Vibrance I) is a lipid-rich formula including beta-glucan, the proper balance of long chain fatty acids (DHA and EPA) derived from natural schizochytrium algae, and color-enhancing carotenoids, all combined with just the right amount of vitamins, minerals and water-soluble stabilized vitamin C. It is perfect for enriching live foods with poor nutritional value that are naturally low in lipids, such as adult Artemia.
Personally, aside from enriching live foods, I prefer the high-fat formula (Vibrance I) for young seahorses that are still growing, and for adult seahorses that are actively breeding, churning out brood after brood, since they need all the calories and energy they can get. On the other hand, I like the low-fat formula (Vibrance II) for mature seahorses that are no longer breeding. This includes younger adults that are taking a break from breeding during the off-season, unpaired adults that have no mates at the moment, and older individuals that have been retired and put out to pasture. No longer growing and no longer producing clutch after clutch of eggs (or nourishing a pouch full of babies, in the case of males), these older specimens don’t need as much fat in their diets. Switching them to a low-fat formulation can help protect them from age-related conditions such as fatty liver disease (hepatic lipidosis).
Vibrance I, the high-fat formulation, is ideal for enriching newly-hatched brine shrimp that will be fed seahorse fry, so it’s especially useful for hobbyists that are into breeding and rearing their seahorses.
But for me, what really sets Vibrance apart from other enrichment products is that it is the only one that includes beta-glucan as a primary ingredient. Beta-glucan is a potent immunostimulant that provides important health benefits for fishes. Thanks to Vibrance, we can now boost our seahorse’s immune systems and help them fight disease as part of their daily feeding regimen. Enriching our galloping gourmets’ frozen Mysis with Vibrance will give them a daily dose of Beta Glucan to stimulate phagocytosis of certain white cells (macrophages). If the research on Beta Glucan is accurate, this could be a great way to help prevent infections from bacteria, fungus, and viral elements rather than attempting to treat disease outbreaks after the fact.
Not only should Vibrance + Beta Glucan help keep healthy seahorses healthy, it should also help ailing seahorses recover faster. Research indicates that it helps prevent infections and helps wounds heal more quickly (Bartelme, 2001). It is safe to use in conjunction with other treatments and has been proven to increase the effectiveness of antibiotics (Bartelme, 2001). It will be great for new arrivals recovering from the rigors of shipping because Beta Glucan is known to alleviate the effects of stress and to help fish recover from exposure to toxins in the water (Bartelme, 2001) . Good stuff!
For more information on the potential benefits of Beta Glucan for aquarium fish, please see the following article:
Click here: Advanced Aquarist Feature Article
Adminstering Beta Glucan orally via Vibrance-enriched frozen Mysis, which are so naturally rich in highly unsaturated fatty acids (HUFA), is the perfect way to boost the immune response of our seahorses since vitamins and HUFA enhance the capacity of immune system cells that are stimulated by the use of beta glucan (Bartelme, 2001).
The reddish-orange coloration of the Vibrance does help elicit a strong feeding response from Ocean Rider seahorses that are accustomed to eating Vibrance-enriched frozen Mysis from a very early age. But it may not have the same affect on seahorses from other sources. Piscine Energetics frozen Mysis relicta does have natural odor attractants that act as appetite stimulants and help to trigger an aggressive feeding response, so you might consider switching to PE Mysis relicta if you’re using a different brand of frozen food.
Regarding your finicky Hippocampus barbouri, you might try target feeding the seahorse with a turkey baster in an effort to entice it to eat the frozen Mysis. The baster can be used to impart movement to the frozen Mysis by dangling them from the tip of the baster enticingly, and then releasing them right in front of the seahorses snouts. If the seahorses don’t snap them up while they are drifting down through the water right in front of their noses, then you can use the baster to gently blow or swirl the frozen Mysis around a bit after it has settled on the bottom to attract their interest. This usually works like a charm. Here is some additional information on target feeding seahorses with a baster that should give you a better idea of how to proceed:
The individual personalities of seahorses naturally extend to their feeding habits. Some are aggressive feeders that will boldly snatch food from your fingers, while some and shy and secretive, feeding only when they think they’re not being observed. Some like to slurp up Mysis while it’s swirling through the water column, and some will only take Mysis off the bottom of the tank. Some are voracious pigs that greedily scarf up everything in sight, and some are slow, deliberate feeders that painstakingly examine every morsel of Mysis before they accept or reject it. Some eat like horses and some eat like birds. So how does the seahorse keeper make sure all his charges are getting enough to eat at mealtime? How does the hobbyist keep the aggressive eaters from scarfing up all the mouth-watering Mysis before the slower feeders get their fair share? And how can you keep active fishes and inverts with seahorses without the faster fishes gobbling up all the goodies before the slowpoke seahorses can grab a mouthful?
Target feeding is the answer. Target feeding just means offering a single piece of Mysis to one particular seahorse, and then watching to see whether or not the ‘horse you targeted actually eats the shrimp. Feeding each of your seahorses in turn that way makes it easy to keep track of exactly how much each of your specimens is eating.
There are many different ways to target feed seahorses. Most methods involve using a long utensil of some sort to wave the Mysis temptingly in front of the chosen seahorse; once you’re sure this has attracted his interest, the Mysis is released so it drifts down enticingly right before the seahorse’s snout. Most of the time, the seahorse will snatch it up as it drifts by or snap it up as soon as it hits the bottom.
A great number of utensils work well for target feeding. I’ve seen hobbyists use everything from chopsticks to extra long tweezers and hemostats or forceps to homemade pipettes fashioned from a length of rigid plastic tubing. As for myself, I prefer handfeeding when I target feed a particular seahorse.
But no doubt the all-time favorite implement for target feeding seahorses is the old-fashioned turkey baster. The old-fashioned ones with the glass barrels work best because the seahorses can see the Mysis inside the baster all the way as it moves down the barrel and out the tip. By exerting just the right amount of pressure on the bulb, great precision is possible when target feeding with a turkey baster. By squeezing and releasing the bulb ever so slightly, a skillful target feeder can keep a piece of Mysis dancing at the very tip of the baster indefinitely, and hold the tempting morsel right in front of the seahorse’s mouth as long as necessary. Or if the seahorse rejects the Mysis the first time it drifts by, a baster makes it easy to deftly suck up the shrimp from the bottom so it can be offered to the target again. In the same way, the baster makes it a simple matter to clean any remaining leftovers after a feeding session. (You’ll quickly discover the feeding tube is also indispensable for tapping away pesky fish and invertebrates that threaten to steal the tempting tidbit before an indecisive seahorse can snatch it up.)
In short, target feeding allows the hobbyist to assure that each of his seahorses gets enough to eat without overfeeding or underfeeding the tank. And it makes it possible to keep seahorses in a community tank with more active fishes that would ordinarily out-compete them for food, since the aquarist can personally deliver each mouthful to the seahorses while keeping more aggressive specimens at bay.
The key to keeping active specimens like firefish or cleaner shrimp successfully with seahorses is to feed the other fish and inverts with standard, off-the-shelf aquarium foods first, and once they’ve had their fill, then target feed the seahorses.
If the target feeding doesn’t help, then I would suggest offering your finicky H. barbouri live adult brine shrimp instead of the expensive copepods. Many breeders, myself included, have noted that the prickly seahorse (H. barbouri) is exceptional pond of adult Artemia and will rarely refuse such an offering. Just be sure to observe the usual precautions whenever feeding live adult brine shrimp to seahorses.
There is one potentially serious drawback to feeding your seahorses living prey on a regular basis. There is always the chance that you can introduce disease into your aquarium along the with the live food. Live Artemia (brine shrimp), for example, are known disease vectors for a long laundry list of fish pathogens, and should be treated with caution in that regard – especially if obtained from your local fish store (LFS). The aquarist who relies on live foods for his seahorses MUST take special precautions to eliminate this potential danger!
Fortunately, there are a couple of simple measures that can minimize such risks. Decapsulating Artemia cysts, for instance, removes all known parasites and pathogens, effectively sterilizing brine shrimp eggs. Large public aquaria routinely go a step further, disinfecting live foods by administering a 10-minute freshwater bath and then rinsing it thoroughly through a 100-micron strainer before offering it to their seahorses (Bull and Mitchell 2002). Home hobbyists should do the same (a brine shrimp net will suffice for the strainer). Brine shrimp — the chief offender as a disease vector — tolerate this disinfection process extremely well. In addition, adult brine shrimp (Artemia sp.) are now available from High-Health facilities, which greatly minimizes the risk of disease contamination, and, when possible, the seahorse keeper should take full advantage of these safe vendors when purchasing live foods.
Secondly, you must be aware that unfed adult brine shrimp are virtually nutritionally barren, and it is therefore vital that they be enriched improperly before you offer them to your seahorses. Adult brine shrimp are a good source of protein, but they have very little fat content. The lipid-rich Vibrance One formula that you purchased is thus ideal for enriching brine shrimp, transforming them from nutritionally barren, empty calories into a high-fat powerhouse of nutrients. So, if you cannot trick your finicky Barb into eating frozen Mysis by imparting movement to it with a turkey baster, then I would suggest obtaining economical adult brine shrimp, enriching it with Vibrance One, disinfecting it by rinsing it thoroughly in freshwater, and then feeding it to your seahorses.
Best of luck expanding the diet of your seagoing gourmets and weaning them onto frozen foods, FERS4REEF!
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.